How to Mine or Recycle your own clay
Written July 18, 2005
Revised January 30, 2008
The first thing you will need to do is build a form for a
plaster
bat.
This is the outside form:
It is built using 2X4's and plywood.
Outside dimensions are 36 by 24 inches
This is the inside form:
Dimensions are 26 by 14 inches
Seal all inside joints with caulk
Nail the two together thus
(this is a demo only - use more nails)
Before you did this you should have taped a layer of cardboard
to the inside vertical surfaces to make sure you can remove the form
without
destroying it.
Mix up a big batch of plaster and pour it in there, tapping
regularly
to avoid the voids and bubbles, like any casting process.
Then you get a piece like this, the top edges are 3 inches
thick:
And this in profile:
Next step is to go and get some clay. Either dig it yourself
or get that bucket of wheel slop and trimmings. If
you are starting out with dry clay: smash it into as many small pieces
as
practical so it can more uniformly absorb the water
You'll need 5 gallon buckets, a lid with a hole cut in it, an
industrial strength paint mixer, a 1/2" electric drill (1/3 horsepower
or equivalent), boots, a hose, a screen door screen, and a place to
make
a mess - preferably outside so you don't fill the drain with mud.
Stick that mixer into the bucket of slop and hold the lid down
with your boot. Mix well
Then try to put it through the screen into an empty bucket:
What you'll find is that it's too thick to go through the
screen
so push it through with the hose. Then keep adding water to the slop
bucket
and mixing until it gets thin enough to go through:
The whole idea is to add enough water into the clay to get it
through the screen. There are no measurements.
I find rubber bands, pieces of sponge, etc that I would rather
deal with at this stage, than have it ruin a pot
The product. Two cans of slop will make four cans of screened
clay
Alternately, you can use a bathtub as a settling tank (see the
last picture)
What ever didn't make it through the screen leave in the slop
bucket for next time .
Then clean up. And wait a month for clay to settle.
Check it every time you get antsy, then once you are convinced
it isn't going to settle any more, siphen off the supernatent (the
water)
.
Drill a hole in the corner of the previously used inside frame
so water has someplace to go:
Then line it with canvas and pour in the settled clay:
Depending on the humidity where you are, let the water
evaporate
off for a week or so. There are a number of variations on this theme. I
think some people tie knots in the legs of a pair of jeans and let 'em
out
to dry. Do whatever works to remove water without letting the edges dry
out.
Next step is to put the now fudgy mud into the plaster bat to
further dry it:
Then spread it around:
This step may last for a day or so. As soon as I can remove it
with my fingers, I remove it. It's at a nice soft stage and can be
wedged
or placed on another plaster bat to dry it to exactly the water content
you like.
Be careful not to contaminate the clay with plaster chips:
I use the outer form as a wedging table:
The author using this technique in 1990 to mine native yellow
clay.

in 2008 I bought this wonderful device

A Peter
Pugger
Whereas all of the above steps are necessary for mining clay,
recycling with a pugger is a breeze.
Just take any plastic clay and stuff it in the machine: mix, deair, pug
Voila
The new set up:

The product

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