...Don't forget to put the kiln in place on the slab before the
starts. Hire a rigging company to place the kiln (their liability if kiln is
William "Bill" Schran
...I would surely recommend that you build with
non-combustible materials such as steel and brick. I would be especially
hesitant about installing wood trusses above a kiln.
Here in Texas it would be obscene to put a kiln in such a fully enclosed
building. Even where you are, I think the option to keep it enclosed in
winter but being able to open up a whole wall or two in summer would
Call me over-cautious, but once you've caught a kiln shed on fire you
think twice about building a wooden structure around a kiln.
August 13, 2005
David and Bill,
Thanks for the input.
I live next to a huge coal strip mine with some of the largest heavy equipment on the planet.
I will trust that they can hoist a mere 2300 lbs with one of their giant front loaders/forklifts
And I will place it before laying all the bricks
I'm also considering using coal to fire pots one of these years but haven't researched it yet
I get 6 foot high snow drifts in the winter, so an enclosed building is a must
The building walls will be 9" of brick/two bricks thick with no interior framing - just wood windows and doors
Under the trusses I plan install 5/8" fireproof cement board
I'll trust Paul Geil to advise me on how far away to keep the wood trusses from the vent system that will come with this kiln.
Then a steel roof over it all with an exhaust fan out the attic space connected to a thermostat so it will kick on automatically.
I have no intention of letting my little building go up in smoke.
in summer I can open all the doors and windows to get air in and out (Four windows, four doors)
in winter I could of course open a few windows but:
I'm planning on leaving a few "trick bricks" loose on the ground level in order to be able to hose the building out
Also to let the heavy propane out in case of a leak.
And I was thinking I could leave larger spaces at ground level to let air in in the winter to provide air for the kiln and a woodburner that I'll use as heat source. (Can I connect a small propane heater to the same tank/line as I'll use for the kiln?)
The question is: how big should these holes be? I need a engineer to calculate the volume of air that the kiln will require, then add a few square inches so I'll have something to breathe in there :)
Any air flow engineers in the audience?
I spent some time cleaning up the kiln slab, knocked down all the weeds, pressure washed the concrete. Now it looks like nothing will happen until next spring. Guess I'll spend the winter working on my throwing skills and reading John Britt's book on High-Fire Galzes.
As the leaves started to fall I couldn't help but think of this story about
...Rikyu's entrance exam before being admitted as a student of the
tea master Takeno Joo. Rikyu was asked to clean Joo's leaf strewn
First he raked until the grounds were spotless. Then, in a gestrure
with wabi-sabi overtones, he shook the tree trunk, causing a few leaves
to fall. Wabi-sabi as evidenced here, is clean but never too clean or
Amazon.com: Books: Wabi-Sabi: for Artists, Designers, Poets & Philosophers by Leonard Koren.
The draftsman tells me the roof will sweat without an undersheathing
I spoke to Paul Geil today:
He said that we really don't want to or have to come out the peak of the roof.
But we haven't found a non-flammable roof sheathing material yet either.
Above the hood we'll rise with a 14" OD Class A double walled pipe, and must end up 2' above the peak of the roof, making the whole assembly 19'
Picture number three above shows the original plan to place the kiln so that afternoon light will illuminate the kiln for loading ..??